Teddy von Ranson has made his mark with his emerging namesake label, creating a sensibility that combines European flair with East/West coast elements incorporating surf, ski, skate and street influences. Von Ranson’s American sensibility stems from his post at Ralph Lauren with a 15-year career span, and then as the former creative director of the Frye Group, garnering him the spotlight as one of American menswear’s most exciting talents.
His irreverent approach to fashion has propelled his ability to layer technical and fashion pieces for unexpected pairings to create the cool West Coast sentiment with East Coast discernment that has advanced his story of the modern American man.
For his spring lineup, the French Riviera, specifically the Côte d’Azur, was the source for von Ranson’s approach, not in the traditional sense or American point of view, but rather locating the perfect tangent in animating the proportions of his garments, via the implementation of French and modern workwear details infused with his signature details.
His vibrant pieces continued to strike a balance between American playfulness and the sophistication of European travel.
Von Ranson has found inspiration via painterly prints in his previous collections, and this season they ranged from artists such as Picasso and Matisse to Abstract Surrealism, which translated into jacquard double-breasted topcoats, overshirts as well as into his shirting assortment.
Among the highlights were a cropped, boxy modern field coat that combined subtle nautical elements with classic military style, with pieces constructed from nylon canvas in signal yellow. The same vibrant hue popped up in other categories, including tailoring, knits and shirting, with suede workwear jackets in rich French blue and sandy tones offering a touch of elegance to the lineup.
Other standouts included a white denim pant with workwear details and a slight flared leg; denim cabin coats; wardrobe essentials such as pull-on drawstring cargo shorts in a technical twill; striped suiting with a boxy silhouette, wide striped oversized workwear shirts, and open crochet polos (which have been a strong seller for the brand in previous seasons).
Earlier this year, WWD reported the addition of Peter Gryson to come on board as chief executive officer and handle the business end of the brand, which sells at Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Ron Herman, to name a few. The brand’s momentum is continuing, as he was nominated Thursday by the CFDA for The American Menswear Designer of the Year award.
