A lively femininity and sense of lightness ran through the Rochas collection, conjured by a creative studio after the Interparfums-controlled brand parted ways with Charles de Vilmorin earlier this year.
The contribution of the 26-year-old designer, who is known for his colorful paintings tinged with darkness, made room for vibrant colors, new prints and nods to the house’s archives, ranging from volumes winking to its couture heritage to laced textures evoking its vintage fragrance flacons.
Touching on different concepts — perhaps a few too many — the creative studio attempted to inject a new energy into the brand and make it relevant for today’s women. In this quest, the team rendered the same sculptural and feminine silhouettes in different fabrics, from cotton and poplin to even denim to emphasize that a Rochas piece infiltrates a woman’s daily wardrobe, too. It was the case of fitted blazer jackets pinned with eccentric brooches shaped like calla flowers or pencil skirts with graphic side pockets.
A winning theme centered on marbles, which were turned into a print on a popping yellow minidress or used as buttons and 3D appliqués punctuating tailoring and party-ready pieces with a lighthearted twist.
Yet it was eveningwear that were the ultimate highlights, via feather-like sequins popping on tops or beneath organza skirts; sensual column gowns; corsetry-inspired attire, and high-drama taffeta capes in black or a beautiful pale jade hue.
Anchoring the collection was a bold buckle in brushed gold, fished out from the archives and smartly turned into a distinctive element to give a little cohesion to the different looks. It could be a good starting point for the new chapter of the brand, which hasn’t revealed its new creative director.
